Discover Veliko Tarnovo
Veliko Tarnovo is one of the most picturesque towns in Europe. The Yantra River winds around the Old Town, and red-roofed buildings cling to the wooded slopes leading up to Tsarevets Fortress and Ascension Cathedral. The cobblestone streets, crumbling castles, and Byzantine churches give off a Medieval vibe, reminding visitors that this small town was once the capital of the Bulgarian Empire.
When to Go
If you donโt mind the crowdsโand competition for hotel bookingsโSummer in Veliko Tarnovo can be sunny, with the average temperature above 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Some travelers report that the weather is pretty hot during these months.
Winter can be cold, with average temperatures in the 30s from December to February.ย
By contrast, Fall and Spring are good times to visit, though select businesses and attractions may be closed. September to November and March to May rarely see temperatures below 43 degrees. There are fewer crowds and the weather is decent enough for hiking and walking about.
Things to Do in Veliko Tarnovo
Veliko Tarnovo is a quiet mountain town with a rich history set in stoneโwhich you can explore today. Check out these things to do and see:
1. Explore the Ancient Tsarevets Fortress
This medieval castle was the royal stronghold of the Bulgarian Empire. The most important fortress in Bulgaria, its palace was compared to the grandeur of Rome, but the Ottoman Empire burned it down when they conquered the region.ย
Today you can wander around the massive complex of ruins, surrounded by walls that are 12-feet thick (the walls of your house are probably one foot thick at the most). In addition to the palace, you can get a sense of Medieval life by walking among hundreds of buildings and more than a dozen churchesโlike the Ascension Cathedral.ย
Though it looks like an ancient Byzantine church, itโs actually a rebuilt structure dating to 1970, with some intriguing murals inside. The views from the mountain fortress of the surrounding area are also commanding. During select parts of the year you wonโt want to miss the incredible light and sound show that takes place over the fortress, which you can view from one of the many hotels and restaurants in Old Town.
2. Stroll Down Gurko Street
This picturesque street meanders along the Yantra River. Whitewashed homes with dark wood trim and balustraded balconies cling to the hills, potted plants dangling above the street and flowery foliage climbing through trellises. There are some boutique hotels, vacation rentals, and restaurants along the street, which can provide a nice place to stop, eat, and perhaps have a drink before continuing your stroll through old world Bulgaria.ย
The epic Asenevtsi Monument to the Asen Dynasty can be seen across the Yantra River. Built in the 1980s, it commemorates Bulgarian liberation from the Byzantine Empire by brothers Asen and Petar. Stambolov Bridgeโwhich carries you to the mounted warriors and giant swordโis the perfect place to snap an Instagram pic of Veliko Tarnovo.
3. Buy Something Artsy in the Samovodska Charshia
Samovodska Charshia means the craft streets, and itโs a fitting name for one of the most historic neighborhoods in Veliko Tarnovo. Samovodska Charshia is a cobblestoned district where potters, blacksmiths, and artists sell some of their amazing handicrafts. There are also antique, jewelry, and book stores throughout the neighborhood, creating an eclectic shopping experience for travelers wandering its narrow streets.ย
In some stores you can actually watch the artisan make whatever youโre buyingโnothing imported from China here! Samovodska Charshia can be the place where you pick up some traditional pottery, embroidered clothing, or even a hand-painted icon. You can also get some cultural favorites like Martenitsa (red and white bracelets associated with the arrival of Spring), or oddities like kitsch from the communist period.ย
4. Step Back in Time at One of the Many Medieval Churches
There are some amazing examples of well-preserved Eastern Orthodox church architecture in Veliko Tarnovo. These churches tend to have thick walls, with interior spaces that are smaller and darker than Western European churchesโand the unique artistic style of their medieval interiors is otherworldly.
The Holy Forty Martyrs Church is a brief walk from town, and was once the main church of a sprawling monastery complex along the Yantra River. The remaining Eastern Orthodox Basilica is a fascinating example of medieval architecture. It was built by the Bulgarian Tsar in honor of some Roman soldiers who were martyred early in Christian history (hence its name). The interior contains some historical records inscripted on columns.
Another interesting medieval building to explore is the Church of Saints Peter and Paul. The dark interior of this low-lying brick church is filled with layers of frescoes from different time periods, which provide a fascinating glimpse into the history of the region. The church is remarkable for its ornate iconostasis (a decorative treatment of the churchโs apse, prominently featuring icons, or pictures of saints).
Sitting beside the waters of the Yarna, The Church of Saint Demetrius of Thessaloniki is one of the best examples of Romanesque architecture youโll find anywhere in Europe. The structure was actually rebuilt in the 1970s, but it looks exactly like it must have centuries ago. The intricacy of the brickwork patterns along the curved arches of its faรงade contrast nicely with the simple shapes of the church.
Lastly, you will want to visit the impressive Cathedral Rozhdestvo BogorodichnoโCathedral of the Nativityโbuilt on one of the highest points in Veliko Tarnovo. The dome of this cathedral and its bell tower rises over the city. Though the layered domes remind one of Byzantine architecture, there are some unusual arabesque flares that provide a unique accent to this memorable church.
5. Take a Day Trip to Nearby Arbanassi
Just 2 miles away from Veliko Tarnovo is a small Bulgarian village thatโs even more off the beaten path. Arbanassi is remarkable for its Bulgarian Revival Architecture and its Nativity of Christ Church, among other churches from the 17th and 18th centuries.ย
The murals in the Nativity of Christ Church include scenes depicting the Birth of Christ and the Last Judgement. These magnificent examples of Byzantine style, executed after the fall of the Byzantine Empire, totally cover all sides of the barrel-shaped church interior.
At one point, Arbanassi was home to many wealthy merchants who traded in the region. If you want to learn a little bit about what life was like back then, a visit to the Konstantsaliev House wonโt disappoint you. This house-museum will make you feel as if time has frozen, as you wander through the living quarters, courtyard, and kitchen of this massive fortress-like home.
Where to Eat
No adventure is complete without trying some of the local cuisine. Bulgarian cuisine is noted for its similarity to Greek and Turkish food; itโs hearty and lightly touched with spice. Stews and grilled meats are common, though there are also lighter dishes like Shopska Salad (cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers, and feta cheese). Perhaps most memorable is Rakia, a strong Balkan variation of fruit brandy. Nazdrave!
Well prepared cuisine, amazing panoramic views of Veliko Tarnovo, and a home-like atmosphere combine at Shtastliveca. The restaurant has a rotating seasonal menu, although itโs always pretty extensive, with both local Bulgarian favorites and worldwide flare. Shtastliveca also has themed nights inspired by the food and culture of different countries.ย
If youโre looking for some Mediterannean cuisine for lunch or a light dinner, Ego Pizza & Grill will be your go-to place. There are two locations; one in the more modern part of town, and one right in the Old Town. This second location has an outdoor deck with incredible views of the city, and some interesting Mediterranean dรฉcor. The menu is a mix of old world favorites presented with a modern flare, and classy takes on traditional items like (you guessed it) pizza.
Since 1858, the Hadji Nikoli Inn has been a landmark in Veliko Tarnovo. The restaurant offers a gourmet menu of continental and Bulgarian favorites, which can be enjoyed with one of the many wines from their extensive collection. If youโre looking for a more formal or romantic dinner, this is the place to go. Before or after your meal you can browse the Innโs museum and art gallery.ย
If youโre feeling like some Bulgarian cuisine served with views of the valley around the Yantra River, Hotel Mehana Gurko is located right along General Gurko Street. The โtavernโ as itโs called (and looks the part) is a great place to dine on local dishes, then wash them down with a dose of Rakia.
Conclusion
If youโre looking for a trip to Europe that really gives you the opportunity to immerse in the local culture, Veliko Tarnovo is the place to go. Though itโs not as popular as Sofia or Varna, Veliko Tarnovo offers every traveler the chance to get up close with history, try some local food, and wander the streets of Old World Bulgaria; itโs a real gem hidden in the Balkans.
Have you visited Veliko Tarnovo? What was your favorite spot in the city?
Comment Below!
Beeeeautiful!! I see what you mean, Veliko Tarnovo looks incredible with all those hills giving you fab views down to the town. The Tsarevets Fortress looks like the best bit though. :D
I have not been to Bulgaria but this town fascinates me. The summer sounds like the perfect time to visit. I love history so this area seems to have plenty to offer.
Wow, I’ve never even heard of Veliko Tarnovo but it looks like so much fun! The Ancient Tsarevets Fortress looks especially cool, I think I’d like to make that my first stop.
We were here in October but it was near sunset by the time we arrived so we were only able to look at the fortress from the bridge and couldn’t go inside it. We’re hoping to return and explore the city in full next time!
Oh my gosh! Everything looks so Instagrammable, and I all of your outfits! Simply beautiful. Your post does a great job highlighting lots to do here too, but I just couldn’t stop scrolling through all of your pictures, haha. Well done! Xx Sara